High Tide in Sumilon Island

After our encounter with the whale sharks in Oslob, the morning still had room for adventure but first, lunch.

We stopped for a meal somewhere nearby. I wish I could remember exactly what we ordered. I think there was sisig. Maybe tinola or sinigang. All I remember clearly is how comforting everything tasted after the long wait and the cold sea. A fruit smoothie too on the side. The kind of meal you forget in detail but remember in feeling.

Boat ride to Sumilon Island

From Oslob’s shoreline, you can already spot Sumilon Island a soft blur on the horizon. The boat ride took about 20 minutes, enough time for the sea breeze to clear my head and lull me into a kind of silence.

The island has an interesting history behind it too. The name “Sumilon” comes from “Sumilog,” which means “take shelter,” Back in the day, fishermen used it as a safe haven during those intense typhoons that love to hit the Philippines.

Exploring the island

We wandered the beach for a while, took photos, and stood where the sandbar should’ve been—submerged under the high tide. I didn’t mind too much. Missing it just gave me another reason to return.

The waves were stronger than they looked. Every few seconds, one would crash into me like it had something to say. I stumbled more than once and laughed every time.

What I’d Tell You If You’re Going

We went in early June. Not ideal, since the tides were high and the weather slightly unpredictable. If you’re planning a visit, aim for the drier months November to May. Catch it on a low tide day if you want to see the iconic sandbar in full shape.

And if you can, take the time to walk to the old tower. I didn’t but next time, I will. Some places are meant to be visited twice.

Oh Whale…Shark?!

Last year, we booked a tour in Cebu. One of those spontaneous “why not” decisions that lead to something you didn’t know you needed. It was my first time in Cebu and also my first time swimming with whale sharks.

I thought I’d write something from memory. Just a glimpse of that time in Oslob.

Sunrise over Oslob

There’s probably a quote somewhere about how discomfort heightens beauty. I usually don’t believe in that kind of thing, but in this case it fits.

We landed in Cebu late at night. After a quick dinner and a few hours of hotel sleep (or no sleep at all), our driver picked us up at 4 a.m. to take us to Oslob.

The van ride was long and bumpy, I genuinely feared I’d get whiplash. I had hoped to rest a little on the way, but instead, I watched the sky shift from darkness to soft light, revealing a long stretch of coastline to our left.

Morning crowd

By the time we arrived, it was already packed. Maybe fifty people ahead of us. But thanks to our guide, we got our names listed and waited for our turn. At the end of the line, we filled out some forms with our names and information and then waited for our number to be called for a briefing. While waiting, we noticed a few stores selling souvenirs and a karinderya (local eatery) across the road where we could grab some breakfast. We hadn’t eaten yet, so we ordered some cup noodles and Milo or coffee to tide us over.

Face-to-face

The water was clear. As I leaned over and dipped my head beneath the surface, I saw the whale shark, massive but calm, gliding just beneath us.

I don’t know how to swim, so there was a moment of panic, but that passed quickly. They didn’t feel threatening at all. If anything, being next to something that enormous made everything else go silent. We got lucky with some beautiful photos and videos, and our guide made sure to capture the moment for us.

It only lasted about 30 minutes, but it lingers in my memory like a dream.

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Things I Learned Later

Feeding whale sharks to keep them in one place interferes with their migration and natural behavior. It can make them dependent on humans and more vulnerable to harm. I wish I had known this before we booked. It doesn’t undo what happened but it does make me think differently about future travels.

If you’re planning something similar, consider choosing marine experiences that prioritize wildlife conservation. Let’s protect what we still have. Let’s be a little more careful with the beauty we’re lucky enough to witness.

I still carry that morning with me. Not just for the whale sharks but for the way the sea looked at sunrise, for the cup noodles, and the feeling of standing in line at 6 a.m. wondering what the day would bring.